What is wheel bite on a skateboard or longboard? And how can you prevent wheel bite from happening to you? If you’ve recently been victimized by this silent nemesis, you’ll want to learn what wheel bite is and how to prevent it ASAP.
Picture this: you’re carving down a long satisfying hill, feeling the wind blowing in your hair…and suddenly, mid carve…out of nowhere your longboard or skateboard comes to a screeching halt, launching you into an unexpected game of “how far can the human body fly?”
What the hell just happened? Chances are THAT was probably wheel bite. But what is wheel bite exactly, and how can we keep it from ruining our sessions?
What is Wheel Bite?
Wheel bite occurs when your wheels rub against the deck during sharp turns (or carving), causing instantaneous friction that stops your board in its tracks and sending you flying off of your skateboard or longboard unceremoniously.
It’s a very common problem on longboards and cruisers but can also happen on skateboards too. The good news is that there are a few easy ways to fix wheel bite that don’t cost a dime.
What Causes Wheel Bite?
There are a few things that could be causing wheel bite. Your skateboard or longboard setup might need some easy to make adjustments (which we’ll talk about). It’s also possible that you are too heavy (weight wise) for your current skateboard setup.
Fear not, fellow skaters! Here are some tips to help you send wheel bite packing and keep your skate sessions rolling smoothly:
How to Prevent Wheel Bite?
I would start with making some of the adjustments we prescribe in this article ONE AT A TIME. Don’t make multiple adjustments in multiple areas…you won’t understand what’s working and what isn’t working when you change so many variables at once. It’s like high school science class…let’s test one variable at a time in this experiment.
1. Tighten Your Kingpin
Grab your skate tool to crank up the tension on your kingpin bushings to limit movement (back and forth rock), making it more difficult for your wheels to make contact with the deck as you carve.
Make small adjustments at a time (like a quarter turn on the nut at a time)…then go out and do a test run. Whatever you do to one end of the skateboard or longboard you have to do to the other end of the board or you could introduce the dreaded “wobbles”.
If you want to see firsthand how to adjust bushings you can check out this video I made which steps you through the process step by step. The explanation starts at the 2 minute mark auto-magically.
This is probably the cheapest and easiest solution to help prevent wheel bite. But beware of the downsides. This adjustment makes your skateboard stiff, less flexible and it won’t pivot as easily as it did before. Again make small adjustments and test them. If you go too tight, your turns will suffer; too loose, and you’ll be back to square one.
2. Replace Your Bushings
If tightening up your bushings doesn’t work it’s possible that your bushings are too soft or are possibly a bit worn out. You can replace them with harder bushings (higher durometer)that will stiffen up your ride and limit the band and forth movement that causes wheel bite.
3. Install Thicker OR Harder Riser Pads
Installing a thicker and or harder riser pad between your trucks and deck will give you that extra bit of clearance or height, making it harder for your wheels to tango with the deck. Harder riser pads will flex less so that can also decrease wheel bite. Riser pads come in different widths and hardness levels (durometer). You might want to consult your favorite local skate shop for help picking one out.
4. Go For Smaller Wheels
Size matters! Opt for smaller diameter wheels to create more space between the deck and your wheels. Remember that the smaller the wheels the more you’ll have to push (work) to keep the board going so it’s all about finding that perfect balance—much like choosing the right pair of skinny jeans without losing circulation in your legs.
5. Get a Deck With Wheel Wells or DIY Them
Some skateboard and longboard decks come with wheel wells, which are recessed, carved or sanded out areas on the underside of the deck just above the wheels. They’re designed to give you more flexibility and your wheels more room to roam.
Wheel wells are pretty common on longboards but less common on skateboards. I’ve seen a few people make DIY wheel wells like this in their garage which is okay if you have the right tools and know what you’re doing.
If I was going to DIY some wheel wells I would probably use a drum sander (attachment) at a slight angle to the deck and finish up with some hand sanding with high grit sand paper. Start small and make sure to check your work often…going too deep could be catastrophic.
6. Truck Angle
Pay attention to the angle of your trucks. A higher degree truck angle will give you more turning ability, but it also increases the chances of causing wheel bite You can switch out your trucks and experiment with different angles to find the sweet spot where your board can carve freely without getting too cozy with the wheels.
7. Switch Out Your Deck
This one is more applicable to longboards (although I recently saw a skateboarder completely remove the deck area above the wheels as a part of some sort of science experiment). If you opt for a drop through longboard deck setup you can completely prevent wheel bite. Drop through longboards are indented to provide space for the wheels and this pretty much eliminates wheel bite. They’re great carving boards!
Final Thoughts: Trade Offs
So, something to ponder as you try some of the items we suggested. There are going to be some tradeoffs. Adding harder bushings, tightening the kingpin or installing riser pads will definitely affect the performance and feel of your skateboard or longboard.
It will affect your tricks, your carving ability etc. It may cause you to shift your weight and screw up a lot of the hard earned “muscle memory”. Some of the easy fixes (adjustments) may cause other things (like tricks you’ve learned) to become harder. So when you’re deciding what you should do…consider the tradeoffs.
FAQS: What is Wheel Bite
Are some skateboard setups more prone to wheel bite?
Yes, skateboard setups with larger wheels, looser trucks, softer bushings or decks without wheel wells are more prone to wheel bite, as they have less clearance between the wheels and the deck.
Can wheel bite cause damage to my skateboard?
Wheel bite can cause scratches or gouges on your deck, but it typically won’t cause any severe damage. However, the sudden stop from wheel bite may lead to accidents that can damage your board or result in injuries to you my friend.
Are softer wheels more likely to cause wheel bite?
Softer wheels may increase the likelihood of wheel bite, as they have more grip and can compress more under pressure, reducing the clearance between the wheel and the deck. Harder wheels, on the other hand, slide more easily and are less prone to bite.
Is wheel bite more common in longboarding or skateboarding?
Wheel bite can occur in both longboarding and skateboarding, but it may be more common in longboarding due to the larger wheels and more flexible decks, which can increase the chances of the wheels coming into contact with the board.
What causes wheel bite?
Wheel bite occurs when the wheels of a skateboard come into contact with the deck during sharp turns (carving) or when applying pressure on the board, causing friction that abruptly stops the skateboard’s movement.
How can I prevent wheel bite?
You can prevent wheel bite by using riser pads, tightening your trucks, choosing smaller wheels or choosing a larger deck with wheel wells, and adjusting truck angles for the right balance.
So there you have it, skate aficionados! With a little trial and error, you can banish wheel bite to the land of scraped knees and bruised egos, leaving you free to carve, cruise, and catch some serious air. Just remember, even the best of us get bitten from time to time, so wear your battle scars proudly and keep on rolling.